In the world of luxury fashion, few voices resonate as authentically as Gabriela Hearst’s. Recently appointed creative director of Chloé, Hearst is on a mission to redefine what it means to be a sustainable brand in an industry often criticized for its environmental impact. In a candid interview, she shared her philosophy on sustainable fashion and the necessity for change within the industry.
Hearst’s journey began on her family’s Uruguayan ranch, where she developed a deep appreciation for the land and a utilitarian mindset. “Everything gets used on a farm,” she explained, shaping her approach to design. At Chloé, she is channeling this ethos into her collections, focusing on slow production and meaningful craftsmanship. Each piece is a testament to her commitment to sustainability, with many garments made to order or produced in small batches, ensuring minimal waste.
“Fashion is overproducing things we don’t need,” she lamented. Hearst’s three-point approach examines the role of fossil fuels, overconsumption, and environmental rehabilitation in her designs. She encourages consumers to be mindful of their purchases, advocating for quality over quantity. “Buy what you need, what you want, and what you want to pass down,” she advised, echoing the lessons learned from her mother, who emphasized longevity in clothing.
Since taking the helm at Chloé, Hearst has launched three collections, each reflecting her commitment to sustainability. Her Autumn-Winter 2021 collection featured a partnership with the Sheltersuit Foundation, transforming deadstock materials into items that provide for those in need. “New isn’t always better,” Hearst stated, as she worked to ensure that more than 60% of her materials were low-impact.
A significant achievement for Hearst and her team is Chloé’s recent certification as a B Corporation, marking a milestone in the luxury fashion industry. Despite these successes, Hearst acknowledges the ongoing challenges. “We’re not perfect, but we’re freaking trying,” she said, emphasizing that the industry must shift its mindset toward a new economy of sustainability.
As she prepares for her role at COP26, Hearst remains hopeful, believing that artists and scientists will lead the way in tackling the climate crisis. “Ingenuity is key to making a difference,” she concluded, leaving a lasting impression of determination and responsibility that resonates far beyond the runway.
