Hedi Slimane’s debut at Celine was one of the most anticipated moments of Paris Fashion Week 2018. But instead of receiving accolades, Slimane’s first collection sparked outrage among fashion fans, leaving many with a bitter taste. The issue? A drastic departure from the brand’s feminist legacy under Phoebe Philo, leading some to call it a “big f*** you to women.”
For a decade, Philo’s Celine was beloved for its minimalist, woman-focused designs, offering clothing that empowered rather than objectified. Women didn’t wear Philo’s Celine to appeal to anyone else—they wore it for themselves. Slimane, however, presented a collection that seemed to abandon this ethos entirely, embracing a more rock-and-roll, overtly sexual aesthetic that many found jarring.
Social media erupted with criticism, with numerous users decrying the collection as “tone-deaf” and “narcissistic.” Fashion writer Lou Stoppard voiced her dismay, calling the show “a big f*** you to women who just wanted something non-demeaning to wear.” Similarly, Instagram account Diet Prada, famous for calling out the fashion industry’s flaws, described Slimane’s debut as merely an extension of his previous work at Saint Laurent, accusing the designer of recycling his old ideas.
The timing of the show made matters worse, coinciding with the highly publicized Kavanaugh hearings in Washington, which brought discussions of gender politics to the forefront. Many felt the collection’s hypersexualized nature was out of sync with the cultural moment, as the runway was dominated by ultra-slim, predominantly white models, further fueling criticism.
For some, the most painful aspect was the complete departure from the inclusive and intellectual tone that Philo had established. Slimane’s Celine appeared to cater more to the male gaze, leaving many women wondering where they now stood in the brand’s new direction.
The backlash has been intense, with former Celine fans retreating to an Instagram archive, @oldceline, to celebrate Philo’s era while mourning the apparent loss of the Celine they once loved. As the dust settles, one thing is clear: Slimane’s Celine is a sharp break from the past, and not everyone is on board.